I look at my schedule for September and whine: "Geez, the summer is over, and I haven't been anyplace!!". Of course I've been out bouldering tons and even tied into a rope and did some climbing up at the crags near Burlington, Ontario once, but I haven't been anyplace "real".. I realize that my Labor day wknd is still completely empty. Time to make some plans.
A Monday trip to the climbing gym gets the ball rolling. Jim is totally psyched to cruise up to the 'Daks to do some climbing next weekend. He is not working and can leave any time after 3 PM or so on Friday, and doesn't have to be back at work till Tuesday morning. Cool. A phone call from home finds out that Kayte may be able to tag along for her first multi-pitch trad climbing adventure - GREAT - but she may have to work Saturday morning. ICK. She's really psyched to go, and vows she'll find a way to get out of working. I call Jim back and ask if his g/f Rachel wants to go, but she's starting her first teaching job on Tuesday, and really can't climb the whole weekend. Bummer. I call Kayte on Thursday night to find out what the work status is? She has to work later on Friday, but can go!! COOL.
Friday
Friday afternoon and the weather and forecast look absolutely perfect. I leave work early to grab some last minute supplies. Jim comes over & we pack the car up and give Kayte a call... She did get out of work, and just got home... We cruise over and finally hit the road around 7 PM.
About 2 hours out from Buffalo, our first "coincidence" happens. We make a bathroom stop on the I-90 and run into John, Jim's brother who has been busy peak-bagging all summer and had given me beta on a "super-fast" way to Keene Valley. We chat, but quickly hit the road again, and follow the new route and end up running into John once more during the 6 hour drive before arriving at the Chapel Pond campsite at 1 AM directly behind John's pickup.
The campsite is more congested than I've ever seen it before. We check the "upper tier" and find room, but the road looks treacherous for my '87 Sentra loaded w/ climbing gear... so we borrow 2 tarps from John and bivy next to the car. John, Yvonne, and their friend Bill sleep in his pickup.
Saturday
Saturday morning and John's group are off to bag some more peaks... we wish them luck, and they cruise to The Garden trail head early. We brew some oatmeal and tea, pack-up the bivy and head to the chapel pond parking area.
The plan is to do Prelude (5.8) on the Washbowl cliff, and maybe Partition (hard 5.8) if we are fast enough. Jim has a vengeance out for Prelude as he'd backed off the 1st pitch 2 years ago and really wanted to do it. It would be a great first multi-pitch climb for Kayte. 3 Pitches with great views & good belays.
We do the approach hike up the steep talus and arrive at the base and Jim quickly starts to fire up the first pitch. I belay and admire the view (impressive even from the base of Washbowl). The weather is kind of "funky".. grey and cool, but not threatening. We are all in long pants, long sleeves and hats. Jim finds the crux layback moves and after some hesitating dispatches them and cruises to the belay. A really nice pitch of climbing. Kayte follows, back-clipping the rope and carrying the pack (since she isn't leading :). She cruises the crux no problem and I clean the pitch.
We scope the topo... and I grab the rack for the exposed second pitch of traversing across a face to a REALLY dirty ledge. I traverse out the face on bad gear towards an antique (Wiesner vintage) ring pin, and a more modern knifeblade... They are the only indication of the route, so I clip the blade and watch it quiver in it's placement...great. I pull the moves to the ledge and totally don't see where the route goes. According to the topo, it supposedly goes up the next corner to a slot and chimney for the 3rd pitch. The moves look about 5.10+ to me... I throw in a belay after only 50 ft of climbing and bring Jim and Kayte over. Jim is glad he didn't have the exposed traverse pitch J
We eventually find the route after more traversing and Jim takes off and is quickly out of view on the 3rd pitch. I can still hear him, and he quickly comes to the base of the chimney. "How does it look?" I ask... "I'm scared" Jim says, but the rope starts moving again, and I hear "clipping". Cool... he's fine. I notice the sun has finally broken thru the clouds and I'm cursing my fleece hat.
Jim finishes the 3rd and final pitch, and pulls the slack. Kayte asks me "So how do you climb a squeeze chimney??" DOH!! Being the consummate instructor [snicker] I say "Just squirm and thrash a lot... just don't get pissed if you only go up in 6" increments". Kayte starts and is quickly out of view... I can tell when she hits the chimney because the rope doesn't move for a WHILE. I kind of feel bad at making her climb it with no guidance, but I'm confident she can figure it out.
I finally hear Jim tell me I'm on, so I quickly clean the pitch. Fun climbing, and the final squeeze chimney is challenging but not TOO hard. Jim is stoked to have finished the route after having backing off of it before, and Kayte is loving the multi-pitch thing. She thought the chimney was cool and fun!! go figure.J
We descend to grab our packs & boots and it's already 3pm... where did the day go?? We decide to leave Partition for another day. We descend and get a little off-route in the talus, but arrive without injury back at the car. Only 3 pitches, but a GREAT day...perfect weather. On the way up route 73, we see 2 people coming out of the Beer Walls trail.. "WOAH, that's Kevin & his wife Anne!!!". I hang a U-turn and we chat with Kevin (a guy I've met locally here in Buffalo and we boulder together) and Anne, and discover that our dinner plans are identical.. Desperados in Lake Placid.. We make plans to meet there in an hour or so.
Jim is on the hunt for a new pair of long route shoes, so we pay a quick visit to the Mountaineer, but the selection is slim. I make a huge purchase of a lexan spoon and 2 cliff bars, Kayte picks up a few things, but Jim leaves w/out any new shoes. We cruise to Lake Placid for dinner at Desperados and pick up some groceries, then head up to Poke-O-Moonshine, hoping the campground isn't full. We grab one of the last sites, and pitch the tents in the dark and hit the sack.
Sunday
Sunday morning dawns absolutely perfect. We take it easy and enjoy the Adirondak morning with tea, oatmeal and bagels. We finally get going after checking in, and cruise down to see if anyone is on Gamesmanship, the Poke-O classic 5.8.
Neither Jim or I have ever been to Poke-O before, but we get some orientation from a friendly dude climbing with his son on Pillar, a 1 pitch 5.7 that looks wide, but cool. We finally come to Gamesmanship, but we are about 15 mins too late, another party of 3 is already racking up for it. We glance at the guide and consider doing FM or Paralysis (5.7, 5.8)... but we are directly under the classic 1 pitcher 5.8 crack called The Sting. It looks awesome.
We wait for the leader to get moving on Gamesmanship as the 2 routes share a common start, and I rack up. I opt for the optional boulder start to the route (making it 5.9 ??I dunno) and immediately grease off the small feet 2 feet off the ground :) The party next door says "you can cruise up this if you want?"... I try the boulder start again and fire the moves no problem. Cool.
Some weird left-traverse moves find me moving along a finger-tip seam to the base of the twin hand cracks. I clip a newly fixed nut and plunk in some more gear. The tips seam meets the hand cracks and I'm stumped. I camp out on the big pumper slopy ledge right of the cracks for what seems like a week, and do my imitation of that guy in the Pusher video who chalks like 100 times before moving again. I try at least 15 combinations of hand jams, toe jams, crimp on the pumper ledge, etc... nothing seems right.
I plug in some more gear... totally over-protecting the crux (for me) and finally see a micro edge right of the cracks which could be the key foothold. I paste my right foot, jam the left hand, grab the pumper with my right and jam the left toe in the crack. Everything clicks, I squiggle my left hand jam up and go for the nice edge with the right. BAM. FINALLY. BREATH. UGH. WOW.
I plug in another piece and kick into pure jam mode... both hands and both feet for awhile until a nice rest. I asses my gear situation.. DOH only 2 slings left and no draws. Crap. I set out again in crack mode with the gear I need ready to go... I plug in a cam or two, then a tri-cam; all clipped directly to the rope. I finally reach the top of the crack. WHEW. A bomber #8 hex placement (1 of 2 hexes on my rack) and I clip my last sling and traverse 10 ft left to the 2 belay bolts. WOW... What a pitch!! I'm exhausted J
Kayte follows having some trouble on the boulder moves, but grins the entire way up the crack; quickly perfecting the jamming techniques we'd talked about and practiced while bouldering at home. After reaching the belay... she declares "cracks are very cool". Jim fires the boulder moves first try, and cleans the pitch... declaring he's definately not ready to lead this kind stuff. Ha, ha... we'll see. We all rap back to the packs. My adrenaline is still kicking and I could go home right now after that pitch and be totally content. Of course we stay.
Jim's not super stoked about doing another long route, so we decide to maybe shoot back to the Pillar and do that, but a quick glance reveals the need for a few more pieces of big gear than we have, so we find another 1 pitch 5.7 dihedral next to a 5.11 sport climb. We munch some food, and Jim racks up.
After about 20 feet of moderate stemming Jim appears seriously nervous. The left facing route has a mini roof, and Jim is having a tough time getting in good gear. He's wigging pretty bad, but he hangs in there. He makes a desperate move to clear the mini-hang, and plugs in the #2 Metolious 4 Cam as "panic-pro". He's still really pumped and super nervous.. He's climbing FAST, and plugging in gear, but it doesn't look great. I sweat it out at the belay wait for the inevitable.
Jim finally hits big holds, breathes for the 1st time in what seems like minutes, and traverses to the belay/rap station. PHEW. Kayte cleans the route and we think about throwing a rope on the sport route, but some guys come up and are going to lead it. No big deal. Jim and Kayte rap.
Jim is mentally "cooked" from this pitch, and the clock reads 3 PM again... geesh only 2 pitches today, we're gumbies I guess, but I really don't care. The Sting was great for me, and Jim says "this thing packed 4 pitches of fear into 1 for me". J Kayte says she's beat also, so we decide to call it, but plan on hiking to the summit of Poke-O after we dump the gear.
We re-hydrate at the tents and dump the rack & ropes into the car. Jim & I shambo for pack duties up to the summit and I win. YEAH. We pack a cpl of quarts and 2 headlamps into the pack and start hiking, but Jim just isn't up for it... so I grab the pack, he heads back to the tents and Kayte and I continue up.
We have a great time hiking... even though I'm sucking air pretty good (man my cardio sucks) and quickly reach the ruins of an old cabin below the main summit. We scope the impressive views, but continue up to the old rickety fire tower.
The views are great... the sun is just starting to dip and we can see well into the Great Range of the Adirondaks, boats sailing on Lake Champlain, and the rounded peaks of the Green Mtns in Vermont. Oh man, I really needed this... We both decide that we could stay forever. The views are tremendous, and we have the summit all to ourselves.
We finally relent and hit the trail back down and pass some touristy folks on the way up... Finally arriving back at the tents about 7:00 PM or so. We all brew up dinner, and tea, and watch the moon-rise and the light show of lightening up to the north. Looks like we are in for a thundershower. Kayte is dedicated and does some reading for school before we all hit the sack.
Monday
I wake up early and hit the showers.. NICE, and we all decide to do something easy & fun... we decide on running up Catharsis (5.6) on the Poke-O slabs. It's 5 pitches, but both Jim and I have done it before, and love the route. It's actually fun climbing and interesting (not like many slabs I've done). So we brew up tea, and hike down the road to the trail to the base.
All weekend we had been noticing the evidence of the massive ice-storms the decimated the North-East last Spring, but this was the worst. The trail has loads of blow-down trees and the going is slow. I am double careful not to get off-route on the approach J We arrive without hassle and I rack up for the fun (but run-out) first pitch and quickly find out I forgot to bring my chalk bag. DOH!! Jim and Kayte both have theirs, so Jim and I will share.. whoever cleans will climb chalk-less.
The first pitch starts out with a super easy crack, but then the angle kicks up and you climb these cool "scallops" in the rock for about 50-60 feet run-out from your last placement to a small belay. Fun but a little scary at the top. Kayte follows and realizes that there really is something too this slab stuff... she has great footwork, but climbs slow, and then figures out the technique. She is happy to reach the belay and soaks in the great views again. Jim cleans (which is easy) and we quickly re-rack.
He cruises up the second pitch which starts in another crack, but then goes to pure unprotected friction moves for a while. He finds an OLD rivet and does the nut-wire-loop trick then discovers that the small birch at the 2nd belay is now missing. Another causality of the ice storms perhaps?
The third pitch is mine which is another "mojo" pitch IMO and has some great pure friction and bad gear, topped off by a killer traverse to the spacious belay ledge. Jim notices the weather is starting to get bad, and I'm concerned, but not worried. Dark clouds are moving north from the big peaks of the Great Range... they are black and big. Hmmmm.
Jim does the cheesy 4th traverse pitch to the "old oak tree" and we figure if it starts to pour, we can escape out right into the trees from there, but the last pitch is Jim's. He leads out left into the "eye-brows" and quickly finds the crux friction moves about 30 feet from the top. After some hesitation he cranks the moves off the REALLY hollow flake and punches up to the trees. We all follow, and the weather holds out. I remember once again, what a GREAT ROUTE.
After some wicked bush-whacking thru more blow-down, we find the hiker's trail and quickly descend back to the tents & pack up.
The way down is fun and we all reflect that it's been a PERFECT trip. Sure we could have gotten in more climbing, but Jim and I both led stuff we had wanted to do (Prelude for him, Sting for me) and Kayte had an absolute blast from start to finish doing "big" trad climbs and learning tons of new climbing techniques.
As I write, it's amazing to see how good climbing is the "great equalizer" since each of us climbed differently, but I really can't tell who had most fun.
